Wright Stuff C

[coachchuckaahs]

I agree with Brian. When we see large changes in unwind turns, it is always traced back to torque meter issues. Rubber rubbing on an edge (we use a home-made digital meter), rubber not properly on hook, hook bent, scale not zeroed, etc. Most common is rubber or hook touching the stand.

Unwind turns is a fairly accurate value. While a torque meter should be used to fine tune the torq, the unwid turns should be quite consistent, and can be used in a pinch when torque meter has issues

Coach Chuck

[Chameleon02]

I had a quick question on rubber length. With our 14 inch motor stick we tried mounting 2 grams of the medium weight rubber and it dangled loosely by a lot. This led to a lot of knotting when we wound it up. Right now we are trying about 1.6g which is just slightly stretched so the rubber is straight in resting position. I was wondering if this was desirable, if the rubber should be loose or taut in resting position

[CrayolaCrayon]

I had a quick question on rubber length. With our 14 inch motor stick we tried mounting 2 grams of the medium weight rubber and it dangled loosely by a lot. This led to a lot of knotting when we wound it up. Right now we are trying about 1.6g which is just slightly stretched so the rubber is straight in resting position. I was wondering if this was desirable, if the rubber should be loose or taut in resting position

What do you mean resting? When it is on the hooks and ready to be launched?

[coachchuckaahs]

Generally your rubber will be longer than hook-to-hook length. Last year we had hook-to-hook of about 14" (35.5 cm) but loop length of 42-48cm. When wound, this should not be an issue. If you are stretching but walk in too fast at the end without winding, it will knot up terribly. If you combine walk-in with winding, you should get very nice, clean knots that do not have "stringers" that hit the motor stick. Try changing your walk-in vs. wind pattern to minimize the clumped knots and stringers.

You will (should) land with some winds remaining, so rubber will never hang loose while flying. If you are running out of winds in the air, try more pitch or thinner rubber.

Coach Chuck

[Chameleon02]

I had a quick question on rubber length. With our 14 inch motor stick we tried mounting 2 grams of the medium weight rubber and it dangled loosely by a lot. This led to a lot of knotting when we wound it up. Right now we are trying about 1.6g which is just slightly stretched so the rubber is straight in resting position. I was wondering if this was desirable, if the rubber should be loose or taut in resting position

What do you mean resting? When it is on the hooks and ready to be launched?

I mean when you attach to the rubber the propellor and hook without winding it at all, the starting position

[Chameleon02]

Generally your rubber will be longer than hook-to-hook length. Last year we had hook-to-hook of about 14" (35.5 cm) but loop length of 42-48cm. When wound, this should not be an issue. If you are stretching but walk in too fast at the end without winding, it will knot up terribly. If you combine walk-in with winding, you should get very nice, clean knots that do not have "stringers" that hit the motor stick. Try changing your walk-in vs. wind pattern to minimize the clumped knots and stringers.

You will (should) land with some winds remaining, so rubber will never hang loose while flying. If you are running out of winds in the air, try more pitch or thinner rubber.

Coach Chuck

Oh alright... thanks for the help

[Polar]

With regards to flaring props, I know they are supposed to be useful in low ceiling areas. However, if there is a building with an extremely high ceiling (~70-80ft), would flaring props no longer be effective? Would it be better then to use a regular prop?

Thanks

[klastyioer]

With regards to flaring props, I know they are supposed to be useful in low ceiling areas. However, if there is a building with an extremely high ceiling (~70-80ft), would flaring props no longer be effective? Would it be better then to use a regular prop?

Thanks

i mean kinda depends on your plane too so experiment with both but i would assume that both could work. also, where in the world would you get a 70-80 ft ceiling?

[CrayolaCrayon]

With regards to flaring props, I know they are supposed to be useful in low ceiling areas. However, if there is a building with an extremely high ceiling (~70-80ft), would flaring props no longer be effective? Would it be better then to use a regular prop?

Thanks

i mean kinda depends on your plane too so experiment with both but i would assume that both could work. also, where in the world would you get a 70-80 ft ceiling?

The nats ceiling is very high.

[klastyioer]

With regards to flaring props, I know they are supposed to be useful in low ceiling areas. However, if there is a building with an extremely high ceiling (~70-80ft), would flaring props no longer be effective? Would it be better then to use a regular prop?

Thanks

i mean kinda depends on your plane too so experiment with both but i would assume that both could work. also, where in the world would you get a 70-80 ft ceiling?

The nats ceiling is very high.

oh yea oops forgot ignore me