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Would it be beneficial to put a ladder brace between the sides of the compression members at the wall end and/or the loading block end?

TheSquaad wrote:Would it be beneficial to put a ladder brace between the sides of the compression members at the wall end and/or the loading block end?

I don’t know but i think some sort of wood around the loading block on both sides would keep it from slipping

It needs some kind of bracing the full length to prevent/reduce buckling. Ladder is one option, truss is another, or a combination of both.

I think someone already asked this but i’m not sure but is it more efficient to add a compression piece at where the lower half of the boom touches the wall to near the base to help with the part touching the wall from lifting up

Cow481 wrote:I think someone already asked this but i’m not sure but is it more efficient to add a compression piece at where the lower half of the boom touches the wall to near the base to help with the part touching the wall from lifting up

I'm not entirely sure about what you're asking... could you clarify?

MadCow2357 wrote:

Cow481 wrote:I think someone already asked this but i’m not sure but is it more efficient to add a compression piece at where the lower half of the boom touches the wall to near the base to help with the part touching the wall from lifting up

I'm not entirely sure about what you're asking... could you clarify?

Unome wrote:

MadCow2357 wrote:

Cow481 wrote:I think someone already asked this but i’m not sure but is it more efficient to add a compression piece at where the lower half of the boom touches the wall to near the base to help with the part touching the wall from lifting up

I'm not entirely sure about what you're asking... could you clarify?

I think this will depend on the remaining design not shown. Do you have other members that maintain the angle between the tension and compression pieces? How are you positioning your loading block at the distal end in relation to the tension rod connection? If it is truly as you have diagrammed, there will definitely be some upward forces.

I built the testing wall, however I am concerned about how far out the inside diameter of the j-hook should be. It only mentions the opening needs to be 2.5cm from the wall. I bought the J-hook from Lowes. It has a straight part to it before it curves. The parameters do not say how long that can be. In particular the distance from the wall to the inside diameter of the j-hook distance can change due to style of J hook. Mine is 4.4cm from wall to inside of Jhook.

rschmitz wrote:I built the testing wall, however I am concerned about how far out the inside diameter of the j-hook should be. It only mentions the opening needs to be 2.5cm from the wall. I bought the J-hook from Lowes. It has a straight part to it before it curves. The parameters do not say how long that can be. In particular the distance from the wall to the inside diameter of the j-hook distance can change due to style of J hook. Mine is 4.4cm from wall to inside of Jhook.

That sounds about right... or our testing wall ain't complying with the rules either.

rschmitz wrote:I built the testing wall, however I am concerned about how far out the inside diameter of the j-hook should be. It only mentions the opening needs to be 2.5cm from the wall. I bought the J-hook from Lowes. It has a straight part to it before it curves. The parameters do not say how long that can be. In particular the distance from the wall to the inside diameter of the j-hook distance can change due to style of J hook. Mine is 4.4cm from wall to inside of Jhook.

I believe the rules go into pretty deep detail, identifying the exact sku # and manufacturer of the specified hook, so technically they should all be the same, but you are correct, there will always be those out there that think that all 1/4" J hooks are the same. The only way to be sure is to check with the E/C well before the competition for his specific hook dimensions.