Rotor Egg Drop B

[A Person]

Any ideas for the materials for the blades?

Look at the posts above you.

[sofan]

Any ideas for the materials for the blades?

Try using light wood(very light) like balsa. You can usually find it at Michael's.
Wrap the blades with the stuff we discussed above and on page 3.
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[sofan]

OK, for my rotor I was thinking of making a hole in it, so the air can go in slow down the descent. Does that fall under "may not contain an airplane, a balloon,or a parachute"?

[sofan]

Another option for the people with a tight budget is using crystal paper. The stores that sell crystal and fine china type stuff wrap the glass in it. Most will give you several sheets for free because it is a good cause. It is a bit heavier than some plastics, but it is a lot easier to use. It is a very thin paper, not in the Asaki category, but a lot lighter than silkspan.

My coach got me a rotor egg drop kit from the S O store. In there was a roll of condenser paper. Is that lighter than all of those talked about?

[jander14indoor]

<SNIP>My coach got me a rotor egg drop kit from the S O store. In there was a roll of condenser paper. Is that lighter than all of those talked about?

That depends on the condenser paper, it comes in different weights. The heaviest is low to mid-range on weights, the lightest is low range, though not near as low as indoor mylar.

One caution with condenser paper. It tends to shrink with changes in humidity. Lots. The standard practice when this was used for Wright Stuff was to lay a sheet out on a towel and spritz it with water, let dry. Do not try to touch or adjust while drying. Do this once or twice and you'll get MOST of the shrink out. After completely dry, iron it. You'll get most of the wrinkles out, but not all, don't worry. The remaining wrinkles help give a little elasticity with the remaining shrink/growth as humidity changes, and probably help the aerodynamics.

OK, for my rotor I was thinking of making a hole in it, so the air can go in slow down the descent. Does that fall under "may not contain an airplane, a balloon,or a parachute"?

First, as usual, this is NOT the place for official clarifications, this response is an UNofficial opinion only.

We need a lot more description of what you are trying to do to give yo even that unofficial opinion. What kind of whole, where? What does your rotor look like before and after the hole?

Thanks,

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

[Beastybob12345]

Any ideas for the materials for the blades?

Try using light wood(very light) like balsa. You can usually find it at Michael's.
Wrap the blades with the stuff we discussed above and on page 3.
^
^
^
^
^

Would balsa be good for the strip of wood that holds the blades up?

[sofan]

Any ideas for the materials for the blades?

Try using light wood(very light) like balsa. You can usually find it at Michael's.
Wrap the blades with the stuff we discussed above and on page 3.
^
^
^
^
^

Would balsa be good for the strip of wood that holds the blades up?

(nods head)

[sofan]

<SNIP>My coach got me a rotor egg drop kit from the S O store. In there was a roll of condenser paper. Is that lighter than all of those talked about?

That depends on the condenser paper, it comes in different weights. The heaviest is low to mid-range on weights, the lightest is low range, though not near as low as indoor mylar.

One caution with condenser paper. It tends to shrink with changes in humidity. Lots. The standard practice when this was used for Wright Stuff was to lay a sheet out on a towel and spritz it with water, let dry. Do not try to touch or adjust while drying. Do this once or twice and you'll get MOST of the shrink out. After completely dry, iron it. You'll get most of the wrinkles out, but not all, don't worry. The remaining wrinkles help give a little elasticity with the remaining shrink/growth as humidity changes, and probably help the aerodynamics.

OK, for my rotor I was thinking of making a hole in it, so the air can go in slow down the descent. Does that fall under "may not contain an airplane, a balloon,or a parachute"?

First, as usual, this is NOT the place for official clarifications, this response is an UNofficial opinion only.

We need a lot more description of what you are trying to do to give yo even that unofficial opinion. What kind of whole, where? What does your rotor look like before and after the hole?

Thanks,

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

OK first the hole.
() some what like this.
I wrapped this in two layers so i will cut a somewhat small hole on the bottom.
I was thinking that if it was loose enough, it will have air go inside and push the top layer up.
I still have parts of the bottom layer on.
Before: () as base. two layers.
After: () make layers of covering loose,cut of part of the bottom layer in the middle but still keep some covering on.
Thanks
( If you have other things to do, don't worry about it, it was just an idea.)(Thanks again)

[A Person]

First, as usual, this is NOT the place for official clarifications, this response is an UNofficial opinion only.

We need a lot more description of what you are trying to do to give yo even that unofficial opinion. What kind of whole, where? What does your rotor look like before and after the hole?

Thanks,

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

OK first the hole.
() some what like this.
I wrapped this in two layers so i will cut a somewhat small hole on the bottom.
I was thinking that if it was loose enough, it will have air go inside and push the top layer up.
I still have parts of the bottom layer on.
Before: () as base. two layers.
After: () make layers of covering loose,cut of part of the bottom layer in the middle but still keep some covering on.
Thanks
( If you have other things to do, don't worry about it, it was just an idea.)(Thanks again)

The bottom layer may just be blown up, blocking the hole. The loose covering may be considered a parachute.

[jander14indoor]

[<SNIP>
OK first the hole.
() some what like this.
I wrapped this in two layers so i will cut a somewhat small hole on the bottom.
I was thinking that if it was loose enough, it will have air go inside and push the top layer up.
I still have parts of the bottom layer on.
Before: () as base. two layers.
After: () make layers of covering loose,cut of part of the bottom layer in the middle but still keep some covering on.
Thanks
( If you have other things to do, don't worry about it, it was just an idea.)(Thanks again)

Sounds like you are trying to make your rotor blades have an inflated airfoil. Interesting concept, probably overcomplicated for the benefit, but that's a pretty uninformed opinion, not data, so who knows.

Comment, based on data, not opinion, low speed aerofoils (which this system IS) tend to have airfoils shaped more like just a single parenthesis, ) Which is fairly easy to build using typical indoor construction like Wright Stuff or Helicopter wings. Those are covered only on one side and have curved ribs. Second side covering not needed nor beneficial.

As to complying with the rules, it REALLY will depend on the event supervisor and the precise specifics of how you implement it. I can think of ways to do it that would comply technically but some supervisors might not accept, and some ways that don't comply.

Guess you'll need to try, collect data to see effectiveness and decide if your implementation is worth the risk.

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI