Actually what I've said a number of times is ladders between the legs, and the ends of the ladders are butt-jointed to the legs. The Xs are on outer faces/surfaces, and that's a lap joint.Complexity wrote:I know it has been stated that ladders have to be lap joints, and x-es on top of the legs, but what if we make ladders on top as well? Would it decrease the efficiency of the tower itself, or not make a difference. I am not really understanding how to make the cutting jig for the lap joints.
Looking back, I see in my discussion/posts I hadn't spoken specifically to top ladders. They should be there (regardless of the bracing system you're using). The top side of them should be set just a hair (maybe a millimeter) below the upper ends of the legs (with upper (and lower) leg ends cut/filed/sanded 'to the correct angle', and legs all the same length as closely as you can. That ~1mm clearance of leg tops gives you a way to sand the top ends so load block sits level/parallel to the base, and is in full even contact with all 4 leg tops. The lower ladders see compressive force only if/as legs try to buckle toward ladder ends. The upper ladder does get increasing compressive force because the legs are angled in. It's on the order of 1kg. If it's not braced against, that last upper section will fail. Two reasons you don't want that top ladder set sitting on top of the leg ends. Top ladders are very short (like 4.5cm), so they can be very light (like 0.7, even 0.6gr/36" if you have it). But at that low density (even with stick weight 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 gr/36), they will crush/deform if they're between the load block and the leg ends.
Don't know what to say on understanding of the leg end cutting jig. A picture would be helpful, but can't post to this forum. Re-read the word description, and understand what you're trying to make is something that will guide your cutting tool/sanding strip/file at the angle the ladder end meets the leg; whatever works for you to make that happen..