Glue

[jander14indoor]

I use CA or balsa cement for these things. Trick with CA is making VERY good joints and using very little. Come to think of it, that's the trick with balsa cement too.

If by wood glue you mean Titebond or Elmer's white or yellow woodworking glue, I personally have trouble using small enough amounts and don't have the patience for it to dry.

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

[kjhsscioly]

I use elmer's yellow woodworking glue, and i usually don't have any issues getting a small enough amount on it. I put a dab of glue on the piece, then wipe off the excess to leave a thin film. Because it is less dense, it adds very little appreciable weight gain and is much less fussy than superglue.

[lllazar]

But it takes soooo long to dry But yes, super glue can be frustrating at times. Does anyone know if any local hardware stores sell ambroid cement? I'm tired of paying 10 dollars ship and i honestly don't think that stuff is worth it....

[kjhsscioly]

Really? It has never taken that long for me, and I end up unpinning most of my rotors and pieces within 10 minutes of gluing it.

[lllazar]

As you can tell i'm a very impatient person

[kjhsscioly]

Yes, but it has taken superglue longer to dry than wood glue does... at least for me

[illusionist]

I use just a touch of accelerator on some of my un-load bearing joints. It sets the super glue in under 2 seconds, almost as strong as it's ever going to get. Plus in competitions, if something breaks, you can put a drop of super glue and a drop of accelerator.

[kjhsscioly]

Super glue is great for competition, but not really for building IMHO

[jander14indoor]

ALL the glues can work, which is best, depends as much on what works for you. I'll refer again to a long article on how to use glues and make good joints on the NSO website, under the Helicopter Duration event, its the first resource listed.

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

[chia]

Rotor before spray glue and mylar: .55 g
Rotor after: .61 g
ohhhh yeah.