Gravity Vehicle C

[CPScienceDude]

Hey I was reading the rules, and had a question. It says that the vehicle and ramp in the ready to run stance have to fit in a 50 by 50 box, so is it ok if the vehicle is longer than that as long as it fits in the box on the ramp?

Seeing as the rules make no mention of the actual vehicle size, just that it has to fit within the 50x50x100 cm box on the ready-to-run position, yes.

[sciolyperson1]

Hey I was reading the rules, and had a question. It says that the vehicle and ramp in the ready to run stance have to fit in a 50 by 50 box, so is it ok if the vehicle is longer than that as long as it fits in the box on the ramp?

3.f. "The Vehicle and the Ramp, together, in the ready-to-run configuration, must fit within a rectangular box with a 50.0 cm x 50.0 cm base and a height of 100.0 cm.

The vehicle cannot be longer than the box.

[Tendan]

Hey I was reading the rules, and had a question. It says that the vehicle and ramp in the ready to run stance have to fit in a 50 by 50 box, so is it ok if the vehicle is longer than that as long as it fits in the box on the ramp?

3.f. "The Vehicle and the Ramp, together, in the ready-to-run configuration, must fit within a rectangular box with a 50.0 cm x 50.0 cm base and a height of 100.0 cm.

The vehicle cannot be longer than the box.

That means that the dowel also cannot stick out the front of the box.

Also, is 5.i. referring to only the pencil or the whole release mechanism?

[CPScienceDude]

Hey I was reading the rules, and had a question. It says that the vehicle and ramp in the ready to run stance have to fit in a 50 by 50 box, so is it ok if the vehicle is longer than that as long as it fits in the box on the ramp?

3.f. "The Vehicle and the Ramp, together, in the ready-to-run configuration, must fit within a rectangular box with a 50.0 cm x 50.0 cm base and a height of 100.0 cm.

The vehicle cannot be longer than the box.

That means that the dowel also cannot stick out the front of the box.

Also, is 5.i. referring to only the pencil or the whole release mechanism?

Only the pencil can extend past the box

[Things2do]

To resurrect the chain on page 15; I've found it easiest to just have the wingnut lock and determine the approximate length of the skid for each distance during practice on a bare concrete floor, and then run the vehicle off of that for the first competition run. For the second run, I adjust for the skid on the new surface and add that to my cheat sheet. That all sounds fancy, but I just eyeball it, draw a couple of lines on my paper, note the deviation from what I expected based on the scrap block of wood I use to measure my wingnut's travel, and act like it's a exact science.

As a side note, do y'all think I could get away with gluing two compact disks together for each wheel? The singular ones are warping under about half of the weight I wanna use. I'm afraid the hollow brass rod axles are gonna start bending as well, but I'm not ready to cross that bridge yet. This is the car that I modified for Wheeled Vehicle, then Scrambler, and hopefully for this. I replaced all of the balsa with poplar after I warped the car during W.V., and I later lengthened the car to fit my Scrambler launcher. I never bothered with the balloons for traction. I'm hoping to get by with minimal structural and wheel reinforcements. Is this even plausible?

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

[Things2do]

To resurrect the chain on page 15; I've found it easiest to just have the wingnut lock and determine the approximate length of the skid for each distance during practice on a bare concrete floor, and then run the vehicle off of that for the first competition run. For the second run, I adjust for the skid on the new surface and add that to my cheat sheet. That all sounds fancy, but I just eyeball it, draw a couple of lines on my paper, note the deviation from what I expected based on the scrap block of wood I use to measure my wingnut's travel, and act like it's a exact science.

As a side note, do y'all think I could get away with gluing two compact disks together for each wheel? The singular ones are warping under about half of the weight I wanna use. I'm afraid the hollow brass rod axles are gonna start bending as well, but I'm not ready to cross that bridge yet. This is the car that I modified for Wheeled Vehicle, then Scrambler, and hopefully for this. I replaced all of the balsa with poplar after I warped the car during W.V., and I later lengthened the car to fit my Scrambler launcher. I never bothered with the balloons for traction. I'm hoping to get by with minimal structural and wheel reinforcements. Is this even plausible? I also know how this vehicle reacts to different things, so that would {theoretically} save me some practice time. And got it within 0.5 c.m. at Regions, so I'm hoping that that would carry over a bit...

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

[sciencecat42]

To resurrect the chain on page 15; I've found it easiest to just have the wingnut lock and determine the approximate length of the skid for each distance during practice on a bare concrete floor, and then run the vehicle off of that for the first competition run. For the second run, I adjust for the skid on the new surface and add that to my cheat sheet. That all sounds fancy, but I just eyeball it, draw a couple of lines on my paper, note the deviation from what I expected based on the scrap block of wood I use to measure my wingnut's travel, and act like it's a exact science.

I think measuring for skid is a bad idea. There's so many variables when it comes to skid including traction of your wheels which could be affected if they even get dirty.

As a side note, do y'all think I could get away with gluing two compact disks together for each wheel? The singular ones are warping under about half of the weight I wanna use. I'm afraid the hollow brass rod axles are gonna start bending as well, but I'm not ready to cross that bridge yet. This is the car that I modified for Wheeled Vehicle, then Scrambler, and hopefully for this. I replaced all of the balsa with poplar after I warped the car during W.V., and I later lengthened the car to fit my Scrambler launcher. I never bothered with the balloons for traction. I'm hoping to get by with minimal structural and wheel reinforcements. Is this even plausible?

Yes, you could but I wouldn't recommend it.

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

*slaps roof of car*
This bad boy can fit so many vehicle events in it.

[MadCow2357]

To resurrect the chain on page 15; I've found it easiest to just have the wingnut lock and determine the approximate length of the skid for each distance during practice on a bare concrete floor, and then run the vehicle off of that for the first competition run. For the second run, I adjust for the skid on the new surface and add that to my cheat sheet. That all sounds fancy, but I just eyeball it, draw a couple of lines on my paper, note the deviation from what I expected based on the scrap block of wood I use to measure my wingnut's travel, and act like it's a exact science.

As a side note, do y'all think I could get away with gluing two compact disks together for each wheel? The singular ones are warping under about half of the weight I wanna use. I'm afraid the hollow brass rod axles are gonna start bending as well, but I'm not ready to cross that bridge yet. This is the car that I modified for Wheeled Vehicle, then Scrambler, and hopefully for this. I replaced all of the balsa with poplar after I warped the car during W.V., and I later lengthened the car to fit my Scrambler launcher. I never bothered with the balloons for traction. I'm hoping to get by with minimal structural and wheel reinforcements. Is this even plausible?

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

If you have the time I'd just rebuild the whole thing. Use sturdier axles and wheels with better traction, like Banebots wheels. If you don't have time, two CDs will probably be better than one..

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

*slaps roof of car*
This bad boy can fit so many vehicle events in it.

LOL

[Things2do]

To resurrect the chain on page 15; I've found it easiest to just have the wingnut lock and determine the approximate length of the skid for each distance during practice on a bare concrete floor, and then run the vehicle off of that for the first competition run. For the second run, I adjust for the skid on the new surface and add that to my cheat sheet. That all sounds fancy, but I just eyeball it, draw a couple of lines on my paper, note the deviation from what I expected based on the scrap block of wood I use to measure my wingnut's travel, and act like it's a exact science.

I think measuring for skid is a bad idea. There's so many variables when it comes to skid including traction of your wheels which could be affected if they even get dirty.

My wheels are always dirty... I've found that it slides {somewhat} predictably when they're dirty, but it varies if I clean 'em.

As a side note, do y'all think I could get away with gluing two compact disks together for each wheel? The singular ones are warping under about half of the weight I wanna use. I'm afraid the hollow brass rod axles are gonna start bending as well, but I'm not ready to cross that bridge yet. This is the car that I modified for Wheeled Vehicle, then Scrambler, and hopefully for this. I replaced all of the balsa with poplar after I warped the car during W.V., and I later lengthened the car to fit my Scrambler launcher. I never bothered with the balloons for traction. I'm hoping to get by with minimal structural and wheel reinforcements. Is this even plausible?

Yes, you could but I wouldn't recommend it.

Edit: Sorry if I sound like a used car salesman in the second paragraph.

*slaps roof of car*
This bad boy can fit so many vehicle events in it.
[/quote]
You could even fit some mousetraps over the hood with minimal reconfiguration! And, if you buy now, I'll include a free air freshener! Air freshener sold separately. While "supplies" last. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects and/or other reproductive harm.

If you have the time I'd just rebuild the whole thing. Use sturdier axles and wheels with better traction, like Banebots wheels. If you don't have time, two CDs will probably be better than one..

I was thinking about removing the brass axles and buying a metal rod with the same O.D. to replace them without having to buy new adapters and new wheels... Or, I know threaded steel rods fit inside of these tubes snugly, and that would help to stiffen 'em.
And, aren't those BaneBots wheels expensive?

[MadCow2357]

If you have the time I'd just rebuild the whole thing. Use sturdier axles and wheels with better traction, like Banebots wheels. If you don't have time, two CDs will probably be better than one..

I was thinking about removing the brass axles and buying a metal rod with the same O.D. to replace them without having to buy new adapters and new wheels... Or, I know threaded steel rods fit inside of these tubes snugly, and that would help to stiffen 'em.
And, aren't those BaneBots wheels expensive?

Yes that would work. As for the Banebots wheels, they are on the higher end - $40 for a set of 4 T81 wheels and hubs, but T40s are slightly cheaper.