Re: Mousetrap Vehicle C
Posted: September 25th, 2018, 3:47 pm
Since the winding system from last year can’t be used this year, what are your ideas of a braking system using the same idea as last year?
Rule 3.e in Mousetrap Vehicle is about the dowel. You might be referring to rule 3.e of Boomilever, which was worded strangely in such a way that one might be able to interpret the contact line position as "greater than 20 cm/15 cm" rather than "at 20 cm/15 cm".harsh108 wrote:What is rule 3e about. Sorry about not knowing this as i am new...
Short answer is no. At least not anything that anyone has come up with as of now.thewaffleguy wrote:is there a better way to do the braking system than making something to stop the wings of the wing nut from moving along the threaded rod? (sorry in advance if you find this question to be worded weirdly)
I don't think there is anything better than a wingnut, especially taking into account the weight penalty of other systems. Some people have done a winding up string, but this is less accurate than a wingnut. Alternatively, you could try some complicated gear mechanism, but it's probably not worth it. Wingnut breaking is accurate to about +-2cm, even lower if you use some tricks. It's probably easier to optimize other aspects of the vehicle before trying to fix that.thewaffleguy wrote:is there a better way to do the braking system than making something to stop the wings of the wing nut from moving along the threaded rod? (sorry in advance if you find this question to be worded weirdly)
100% agree with this. There are certainly ways to modify the wingnut system to increase precision, although its much more complex. I have used the string mechanism in scrambler and decent accuracy is very difficult to achieve.antoine_ego wrote:I don't think there is anything better than a wingnut, especially taking into account the weight penalty of other systems. Some people have done a winding up string, but this is less accurate than a wingnut. Alternatively, you could try some complicated gear mechanism, but it's probably not worth it. Wingnut breaking is accurate to about +-2cm, even lower if you use some tricks. It's probably easier to optimize other aspects of the vehicle before trying to fix that.thewaffleguy wrote:is there a better way to do the braking system than making something to stop the wings of the wing nut from moving along the threaded rod? (sorry in advance if you find this question to be worded weirdly)
Durometer is the hardness of the rubber. The harder it is, the more durable, but less grippy. Therefore, 30A is the grippiest (that's why most wheels you'll see are green.) but lest durable.sciencecat42 wrote:Can anyone explain what durometer means and what effect it has? It seems that the consensus is that 2-7/8” T40 Banebot wheels are the best, but what’s the difference between the 30A/40A/50A variants?