Ill try to answer some questions now that I feel relatively confident for my multi exam
u can run a threaded rod thru the side, and pinch/pressure it with a wingnut so that car's chassis slightly bends, and this bending can be adjusted with tightening and loosening the wingnut. Im not using adjustable steering on my car so I am just saying its not really necessary, but people have told me it helps a lot.
I would personally recommend against this as it is complicated to implement, will add significant weight, isnt all that accurate to adjust, and is very accurate when adjusting.
I would advise just buying the long sticks and cutting them down with a hacksaw or bandsaw
Yes do this, except use a rotary tool like a Dremel or something similar so you dont damage the CF
I want to go with the F1 this time, as the coolness factor, in my opinion, is way above the rectangular frame
This is NOT a good reason to go with this design lol
The correct reasons are as follows:
Benefits: Elimination of chassis torsion and it allows for implementation of passive adjustable steering (as seen on EV 2016)
Cons: Difficult to implement correctly - fit between CF and 3D printed parts MUST be an interference fit or you WILL run into problems (you cant just glue/epoxy the rods in - the fit needs to be so tight that you have to lube the rods and hammer them in.
These pros/cons are not self-evident and i didnt realize them until I struggled with chassis torsion on my 2017 EV which required a complicated solution to solve.
There is a laser cutting service near me
No you cannot do this
How do you make the adjustable steering? I know it would look something like an F1, with a swivel in the middle
DO NOT DO THIS!!! Steering is incredibly sensitive and you will almost certainly lose all of you accuracy of you try to do this (im talking by a factor of at least 5-10)
3. Can I drill into carbon fiber and ABS?
You can, but don't unless you have precision rotary tools (Dremel) and steady hands. Design your parts in CAD with whatever holes are needed.
But in reality, with skid and all that, and curvature, it never quite comes out like that
If you have skid and curvature, you should really try to fix it instead of just accepting it and accounting for it. In both my years in EV, I have known the top 3-4 medalists at nationals and NONE of them were accounting for skid or curvature and everyone was using linear regressions of some sort to determine distance (and steering angle for 2017, although Harriton's system was a bit more complex in that regard).
If you wind your wingnut by spinning the wheels, you can take the distance and divide by the wheel's circuference and get the amount of rotations you need.
This is correct and it should be all you need to get distances all they way up to <2cm. You can also find the circumference of your wheels experimentally if you believe the manufacturer is slightly off due to wear.
See, we only tested in 0.5 meter intervals. If we are to get to 10 cm intervals, we cannot accurately guess with our amount of data (24 runs is not much). I will test some more, I guess.
Yeah this should NOT be necessary. Even for nationals 2017 with the curving bonus, we only used 7 data points (every 0.5m between 9 and 12) and created separate linear regressions between each pair of points due to loss in accuracy due to the curve. Without the curve bonus, we didnt even have data points, just divided by the wheel circumference.
