Scioly.org

The track diagram is now posted.

bearasauras wrote:The track diagram is now posted.

Do we get to choose which side the cans are on or do they have to be in the left?

The rules plainly say "Left"

Last year, I used a kind of scale for brake setting. It was basically a cut up centimeter ruler stuck onto my stopping rod. I'm wondering how much of a difference in accuracy is there between counting the rotations and using a scale like I did.

MadCow2357 wrote:Last year, I used a kind of scale for brake setting. It was basically a cut up centimeter ruler stuck onto my stopping rod. I'm wondering how much of a difference in accuracy is there between counting the rotations and using a scale like I did.

Pretty sure that spinning it would be just a little more accurate the using the ruler since there's a bit less space for error?
like if on the bumpy ride to competition, the ruler gets messed up a tiny bit there would be a huge difference...which could cost you a few placings

waffletree wrote:

MadCow2357 wrote:Last year, I used a kind of scale for brake setting. It was basically a cut up centimeter ruler stuck onto my stopping rod. I'm wondering how much of a difference in accuracy is there between counting the rotations and using a scale like I did.

Pretty sure that spinning it would be just a little more accurate the using the ruler since there's a bit less space for error?
like if on the bumpy ride to competition, the ruler gets messed up a tiny bit there would be a huge difference...which could cost you a few placings

The ruler itself was firmly hot glued to the stopping rod, so what you stated is not really a problem. I think the problem may be that the threaded rod's thread intervals are not small enough, causing the brake settings to be inaccurate...

MadCow2357 wrote: The ruler itself was firmly hot glued to the stopping rod...

Hot glue melts under heat - if you leave your car outside, if its in the trunk of the car or the bottom of a bus, it'll melt.

There are typically 3 different melt points available with hot melt glue. If you have the high temp one, you probably would not have a problem. It does warrant doing some testing to be positive. Epoxy is an alternative?

sciolyperson1 wrote: firmly hot glued

This is an oxymoron if Ive ever seen one. Hot glue is NOT permanent and should NOT be used if you want any degree of dependable structural integrity. I would recommend the following alternatives (in order of permanency):
JB-Weld SteelStik
JB-Weld Clear Epoxy
Bob Smith Cyanoacrelate
DISCLAIMER: If you use the SteelStik, PLEASE WEAR GLOVES.

Looks intresting. Too bad I am in Div C this year