Wright Stuff C

[klastyioer]

Anyone know if the Ikara props that come with the FF kit are flaring or not?
Also, where to buy or how to make flaring props?

-Rós

so they come with what i believe to be three props and if i can remember, they are all flaring props. i dunno how to describe it but the hooks are not music wire (skinny metal rods), there detachable from a plastic base that they rest on. there are benefits to either kind of prop attachment, if you would like to know them lmk. you can buy them on faimodelsupply, but you sound like a beginner or someone who doesn't have much experience from what i read. i would suggest starting with he freedom flight kit though it may be a bit hard to build and to use the props they give you. once you get good you can start building your own planes and props. trust me i'm just starting out with prop making too so we can get through this together.

[CrayolaCrayon]

Anyone know if the Ikara props that come with the FF kit are flaring or not?


-Rós

They're not flaring; aren't they a standard 24cm ikara prop?
This is what FF's flaring prop looks like:
https://www.freedomflightmodels.com/ima ... laring.jpg

I don't remember them being in the FF kit.

[klastyioer]

Anyone know if the Ikara props that come with the FF kit are flaring or not?


-Rós

They're not flaring; aren't they a standard 24cm ikara prop?
This is what FF's flaring prop looks like:
https://www.freedomflightmodels.com/ima ... laring.jpg

I don't remember them being in the FF kit.

the props are diff the one on the left are the ones in the kit

[bjt4888]

Rossysp,

There is a picture of an Ikara “flaring” prop as modified by my teams so that it actually flares on page 6 of the “Design” thread of the 2015 Wright Stuff archive sociology.org forum.

Brian T

[Polar]

So this year's rules allow for a lot of flexibility regarding motor weight, allowing for various types of widths and lengths of motors to be used. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having long/short, wide/narrow, heavy/light motors? Anyone have success with a particular combination of width, length?
Thanks

[klastyioer]

So this year's rules allow for a lot of flexibility regarding motor weight, allowing for various types of widths and lengths of motors to be used. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having long/short, wide/narrow, heavy/light motors? Anyone have success with a particular combination of width, length?
Thanks

this is a really good question actually. it's really just trial and error. just like an experiment, keep the prop and all that the same when testing with different motors. long and narrow will allow for more winds but less torque(power) resulting in less climb overall. short and narrow will result in the exact opposite, be cautious about the toque it might cause the plane to sky rocket. you want to start around i would say 0.75-0.8 motors and work your way up depending on your propellor. let me know what works best!

[Polar]

So this year's rules allow for a lot of flexibility regarding motor weight, allowing for various types of widths and lengths of motors to be used. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having long/short, wide/narrow, heavy/light motors? Anyone have success with a particular combination of width, length?
Thanks

this is a really good question actually. it's really just trial and error. just like an experiment, keep the prop and all that the same when testing with different motors. long and narrow will allow for more winds but less torque(power) resulting in less climb overall. short and narrow will result in the exact opposite, be cautious about the toque it might cause the plane to sky rocket. you want to start around i would say 0.75-0.8 motors and work your way up depending on your propellor. let me know what works best!

I'll be sure to do lots of tests. Any idea where I can purchase some custom cut width of fai tan super sport rubber? I know FFM sells them, but is there anywhere else that sells them for a cheaper price? I've looked around and it seems like FFM is pretty much the only place that offers custom cut widths.

[coachchuckaahs]

Unfortunately, cutting rubber to custom width is labor intensive. Dave does this as a service, recognizing that many SO teams do not have the ability to strip rubber. With this year's rules, this can become expensive.

You can limit your rubber selections and instead adjust your prop configuration (pitch, diameter, etc.) to match the rubber you have. Doing this you could actually settle on a stock width (1/8" or 3/32" depending on your prop), but it is a less optimal way of matching. In addition, the stock rubber will vary in density (as will Dave's), so one piece of 3/32 may not run the same as the next piece.

If you want custom widths pre-cut, Dave may indeed be the only source.

Coach Chuck

[calgoddard]

Polar -

For a description of the construction and use of a proven homemade rubber stripper see:

https://www.amaglider.com/?p=view&a=sim ... r-stripper

Make sure to click on the icon that says "View Plans".

I would first try building and using a homemade rubber stripper. If you are not successful with that endeavor, and cannot obtain custom stripped rubber from FFM in time, I suggest the following alternative. Make a prop with round prop spars that fit into a tubular hub. Glue the spars in place with Duco cement so that you can dissolve the glue joints with acetone. Start practice flights with a predetermined pitch and make flights using a pre-selected length and weight of rubber motor made from a commercial batch marked with a standard nominal width, e.g. 3/32-inch or 1/8-inch. Vary the pitch of the blades until you achieve your longest flight times. Only change one thing at a time. Keep accurate records!

It is worth repeating here that expert indoor fliers typically only go by the length and weight of a rubber motor. If you ask them what width of rubber motor they are flying with they will often tell you they do not know. TSS and TAN II rubber, as sold, vary in width, thickness and density along their length. Moreover, even with the very best rubber stripper it is not possible to strip rubber uniformly. When I fly my best indoor Limited Penny Plane, a small difference in the length of the rubber motor, e.g. one-half inch, for a given weight, e.g. 2.2 grams, and using the same exact batch of rubber, can result in a difference in flight times of as much as 30 seconds.

[Polar]

Polar -

For a description of the construction and use of a proven homemade rubber stripper see:

https://www.amaglider.com/?p=view&a=sim ... r-stripper

Make sure to click on the icon that says "View Plans".

I would first try building and using a homemade rubber stripper. If you are not successful with that endeavor, and cannot obtain custom stripped rubber from FFM in time, I suggest the following alternative. Make a prop with round prop spars that fit into a tubular hub. Glue the spars in place with Duco cement so that you can dissolve the glue joints with acetone. Start practice flights with a predetermined pitch and make flights using a pre-selected length and weight of rubber motor made from a commercial batch marked with a standard nominal width, e.g. 3/32-inch or 1/8-inch. Vary the pitch of the blades until you achieve your longest flight times. Only change one thing at a time. Keep accurate records!

It is worth repeating here that expert indoor fliers typically only go by the length and weight of a rubber motor. If you ask them what width of rubber motor they are flying with they will often tell you they do not know. TSS and TAN II rubber, as sold, vary in width, thickness and density along their length. Moreover, even with the very best rubber stripper it is not possible to strip rubber uniformly. When I fly my best indoor Limited Penny Plane, a small difference in the length of the rubber motor, e.g. one-half inch, for a given weight, e.g. 2.2 grams, and using the same exact batch of rubber, can result in a difference in flight times of as much as 30 seconds.

Thanks for sharing the rubber stripper. I'll look into its construction.
As of now and in the past, I have relied heavily on the width measurement of my rubber as in I pick a width for a motor and cut it to desired weight, and the motor length is dependent on the other two factors. If I ignore the width, does that mean I can keep the motor width constant and just modify the weight or length which would then be directly related? Or do I use different width rubber bands but just don't keep track of the widths and only the lengths and weight? If the latter, is there a proportionality between g/in and motor width? I've found it difficult to completely disregard motor width since it is the main measurement I've used to define my motors in the past.

Thanks